wave breaking
71Moving particle semi-implicit method — The moving particle semi implicit (MPS) method is a computational method for the simulation of incompressible free surface flows. It is a macroscopic, deterministic particle method (Lagrangian meshfree method) developed by Koshizuka and Oka… …
72Boussinesq approximation (water waves) — In fluid dynamics, the Boussinesq approximation for water waves is an approximation valid for weakly non linear and fairly long waves. The approximation is named after Joseph Boussinesq, who first derived them in response to the observation by… …
73Greg Noll — (born February 11, 1937), aka Da Bull in reference to his way of charging down the face of a wave with apparent fearlessness, is a pioneer of big wave surfing.Born in San Diego, California, Noll became famous for his exploits in large Hawaiian… …
74Ola gigante — Este artículo trata sobre las olas gigantes que se producen en alta mar. Para las olas de origen sísmico, véase tsunami. Las olas gigantes, también conocidas como olas vagabundas u olas monstruo, son olas relativamente grandes y espontáneas que… …
75Degasperis-Procesi equation — In mathematical physics, the Degasperis Procesi equation: displaystyle u t u {xxt} + 2kappa u x + 4u u x = 3 u x u {xx} + u u {xxx}is one of only two exactly solvable equations in the following family of third order, non linear, dispersive… …
76Degasperis–Procesi equation — In mathematical physics, the Degasperis–Procesi equation is one of only two exactly solvable equations in the following family of third order, non linear, dispersive PDEs: where κ and b are real parameters (b=3 for the Degasperis–Procesi… …
77Strandbrandung — bangų mūša statusas T sritis ekologija ir aplinkotyra apibrėžtis Bangų dužimas į statų krantą – klifą. atitikmenys: angl. wave breaking at cliffs and scarps; wave breaking at the shoreline vok. Strandbrandung, f; Wellenschlag, m rus. прибой волн… …
78Wellenschlag — bangų mūša statusas T sritis ekologija ir aplinkotyra apibrėžtis Bangų dužimas į statų krantą – klifą. atitikmenys: angl. wave breaking at cliffs and scarps; wave breaking at the shoreline vok. Strandbrandung, f; Wellenschlag, m rus. прибой волн… …
79bangų mūša — statusas T sritis ekologija ir aplinkotyra apibrėžtis Bangų dužimas į statų krantą – klifą. atitikmenys: angl. wave breaking at cliffs and scarps; wave breaking at the shoreline vok. Strandbrandung, f; Wellenschlag, m rus. прибой волн у береговой …
80прибой волн у береговой черты — bangų mūša statusas T sritis ekologija ir aplinkotyra apibrėžtis Bangų dužimas į statų krantą – klifą. atitikmenys: angl. wave breaking at cliffs and scarps; wave breaking at the shoreline vok. Strandbrandung, f; Wellenschlag, m rus. прибой волн… …
