shallow water wave
21Wind wave — Ocean wave redirects here. For the film, see Ocean Waves (film). North Pacific storm waves as seen from the NOAA M/V Noble Star, Winter 1989 …
22Cnoidal wave — US Army bombers flying over near periodic swell in shallow water, close to the Panama coast (1933). The sharp crests and very flat troughs are characteristic for cnoidal waves. In fluid dynamics, a cnoidal wave is a nonlinear and exact periodic… …
23Ocean surface wave — Ocean surface waves are surface waves that occur on the free surface of the ocean. They usually result from wind, and are also referred to as wind waves. Some waves can travel thousands of miles before reaching land. They range in size from small …
24Airy wave theory — In fluid dynamics, Airy wave theory (often referred to as linear wave theory) gives a linearised description of the propagation of gravity waves on the surface of a homogeneous fluid layer. The theory assumes that the fluid layer has a uniform… …
25Boussinesq approximation (water waves) — In fluid dynamics, the Boussinesq approximation for water waves is an approximation valid for weakly non linear and fairly long waves. The approximation is named after Joseph Boussinesq, who first derived them in response to the observation by… …
26Rogue wave — This article is about the deep ocean rogue waves which occur far out at sea. For tsunami and tidal wave phenomena, see those respective articles. For other uses, see Rogue wave (disambiguation). The Draupner wave, a single giant wave measured on… …
27Wind wave model — NOAA Wavewatch III 120 hour Forecast for the North Atlantic In fluid dynamics, wind wave modeling describes the effort to depict the sea state and predict the evolution of the energy of wind waves using numerical techniques. These simulations… …
28Color of water — For the book by James McBride, see The Color of Water. Water portal …
29Deep ocean water — (DOW) is the name for cold, salty water found deep below the surface of Earth s oceans. Ocean water differs in temperature and salinity, with warm, relatively non salty water found at the surface, and very cold salty water found deeper below the… …
30Breaking wave — In physics, a breaking wave is a wave whose amplitude reaches a critical level at which some process can suddenly start to occur that causes large amounts of wave energy to be dissipated. At this point, simple physical models describing the… …
